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Coconut Shell Lamp

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Thursday 15 October 2020

Coconut Shell Lamp

 Coconut Shell Lamp

Friends, Recently i went to my friends home which is in kerala, there i found a interesting lamp made of coconut shell. she used to light the lamp with oil and keep that lamp inside textured coconut shell, which gives textured light at night.
Today i have just modified that lamp with the help of junks.
Lets see what are the items required to do this awesome lamp
Supplies:
1, Empty coconut shell 2, Drilling machine 3, Sanding paper for polishing 4, PVC Pipes 5, LED bulbs
6, Cellphone Battery 
7, Adhesive (quick)
8, Switch 
9, Cutting blade


Step 1: Prepare the Coconut Shell

Prepare the Coconut Shell
Prepare the Coconut Shell
Prepare the Coconut Shell
Prepare the Coconut Shell
Prepare the Coconut Shell

1, Mark a circle at top of shell were you can find 3 dots as shown in first image.
2, Cut the shell with the help of dremel or a angle grinder as shown in image 2
3, Level the cut area with the help of grinding machine as shown in image 3
4, Polish the Outer surface of the shell with the help of polishing machine ( first use rough grid then medium and at last fine grid ).

Step 2: Start Making Holes

Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes
Start Making Holes

1, Making hundreds of hole is not a easy job, this coconut shell is little hard and when i make a hole my hands were paining like anything.
2, First draw your desired pattern in shell.
3, With the help of drilling machine start drilling holes don't leave more space or little space between two holes, make it even so that it look good.
4, Don't use the same size of drill bit, use different sized drill bit to have bigger and smaller holes which will give good texture.
Tips:
Making a bigger hole is hard, so first make a small hole and then enlarge it using bigger drill bit.

Step 3: Making a Lamp Base

Making a Lamp Base
Making a Lamp Base
Making a Lamp Base

1, I used the PVC pipes as the base for the lamp.
2, Cut 2 inch of the Pipe.
3, For top and bottom cover i just flattened the PVC pipe with the help of Heat gun.
4, Make the circle in the PVC plate and cut it as shown in image 2 and 3.

Step 4: Making Battery Box

Making Battery Box
Making Battery Box
Making Battery Box
Making Battery Box
Making Battery Box

1, To place the cellphone battery i made the small compartment with the help of PVC strip and Quick fix
2, Place a battery on the bottom plate and mark the size of battery.
3, Make half cm strip to build a wall and fix it in bottom plate with help of Quick fix as shown in fig 2
4, Place the battery in the compartment and mark the positive and negative place in the half cm strip to make a way to power the Led.
5, Insert 2 screws at the half cm PVC strip as shown in fig 3 and 4 ( after placing the battery just adjust the screws to touch the positive and negative terminals of the battery).

Step 5: Make Place for Bulbs and Switch.

Make Place for Bulbs and Switch.
Make Place for Bulbs and Switch.
Make Place for Bulbs and Switch.
Make Place for Bulbs and Switch.

1, Make 3 holes in the PVC plate to have LEDs fixed there as shown in fig 1 and 2.
2, Mark the size of the switch and cut it so that The switch fits in its position as shown in fig 3 and 4

Step 6: Connect the LEDs to Battery and Switch

Connect the LEDs to Battery and Switch
Connect the LEDs to Battery and Switch
Connect the LEDs to Battery and Switch

1, Am damn sure that every one knows the basic connectivity to light a bulb.
2, if you are not sure about the connection just see my image its pretty simple.
3, Solider first end of switch to positive screw of battery.
4, connect the negative side of battery to one end of LEDS,
5, connect second end of switch to the other end of LEDS.


Step 7: Assemble the Top and Bottom Lid

Assemble the Top and Bottom Lid
Assemble the Top and Bottom Lid
Assemble the Top and Bottom Lid
Assemble the Top and Bottom Lid

1, Attach the Top plate having LEDS to the Top side of the 2 inch PVC tube as shown in fig 1
2, To attach the bottom plate, i just attached the supporting part made of PVC plate and fixed in the Bottom plate with the help of Quick Fix see image 3 and 4.

Step 8: Final Assembly

Final Assembly
Final Assembly
Final Assembly

1, Attach the bottom Plate with the 2 inch PVC tube housing.
2, finally take the Coconut shell and place it on top of the base and attach both shell and PVC with the help of Quick fix. See image 2
3, The final product will be looking like figure in Image 3.

Step 9: Show Time......

Show Time......
Show Time......
Show Time......
Show Time......
Show Time......
Show Time......

This is how it looks at night, I didn't expect this outcome. it was really cool
This is portable and we can take it where ever you want, perfect place would be at bedside.
light textures from this lamp cover an entire big room.

Recovering Old PC Power Supplies

 Recovering Old PC Power Supplies


Since the 1990s, the world has been invaded by PCs. The situation continues to this day. Older computers, until 2014 ... 2015, are largely out of use.
As each PC has a power supply, there are a large number of them abandoned in the form of waste.
Their number is so large that they raise environmental issues.
Their recovery contributes to saving the environment.
If we add to this the fact that we can use many of the components and materials that make them up, to do various things, it is understandable why it is worth make this.
In the main photo you can see only a small part of the power supplies that I dealt with in this regard.
In general, there are 2 ways to follow:
1. Use of power supplies as such (after a possible repair).
2. Disassembly and use of component parts for various other purposes.
As point 1 has been extensively presented elsewhere, I will focus on point 2.
I will present in this first part what can be recovered and where what I recovered can be used, following that in future Instructables concrete applications are presented, with what I recovered.


Step 1: A Little Theory: Block Diagram


A Little Theory: Block Diagram

It seems strange to start with a bit of theory a practical work, but it is important to understand what is worth recovering from such a power supply and where it can be used.
So we need to know what's inside and how it works.
I can't say that all the power supplies from the mentioned period had this block diagram, but the vast majority did.
In addition, there is a wide variety of schemes starting from this, each with specific circuits. But broadly speaking, this is how things are:

1.Network filter, rectifier bridge and rectified voltage filter capacitors.

Power network applies to J connector. Follow a fuse (or two) that burns in case of power failure.
The component marked with NTC has a higher value at the start of the power supply, then decreases with increasing temperature. Thus, the diodes in the bridge are protected at the start of the power supply, by limiting the currents in the circuit.
Next is the network filter, which has the role of limiting the disturbances introduced by the power supply. in the power network.
Then there is the bridge formed by diodes D1 ... D4 and in addition to some power supplies the switch K.
For K on the 230V / 50Hz position, D1 ... D4 forms a Graetz bridge. For K on the 115V / 60Hz position, D1 and D2 together with C1 and C2 form a voltage doubler, D3 and D4 being permanently locked.
In both cases, on the C1 series with C2 assembly we have 320V DC (160V DC on each capacitor).

2. Driver and power switching stage.

It is a Half Bridge Stage, where the switching transistors are Q1 and Q2.
The other part of the half-bridge consists of C1 and C2.
The primary coil of theTR1 chopper transformer is connected diagonally to this half-bridge.
TR2 is the driver transformer . It is controlled in primary by Q3, Q4, driver transistors . In secondary, TR2 commanded in antiphase Q1, Q2.

3. Standby supply and PWM stage.

Standby supply is powered at the input with power network and offer at the output Usby (usually + 5V).
This is itself a switching power supply built around a transformer notated TRUsby.
It is necessary to start the source, being then usually taken over by another voltage generated by the power supply.
PWM control IC is a circuit specialized in the anti-phase control of transistors Q3, Q4, performing PWM control of the source, stabilization of the output voltages, protections against short-circuit in load, etc.

4.Final rectifier stage.

In fact, there are several such circuits, one for each output voltage.
D5, D6 diodes are fast, high current Schottky diodes are often used on the + 5V branch.
Inductors L and C3 filter the output voltage.


Step 2: Initial Disassembly of the Power Supply

Initial Disassembly of the Power Supply

Initial Disassembly of the Power Supply

Initial Disassembly of the Power SupplyInitial Disassembly of the Power SupplyInitial Disassembly of the Power SupplyInitial Disassembly of the Power Supply

Initial Disassembly of the Power Supply

Initial Disassembly of the Power Supply
Initial Disassembly of the Power Supply
The first step is to remove the power supply cover. The general organization is the one seen in photo 1.
The board with electronic components can be seen in photos 2,3.
In photos 3 ... 9 you can see other boards with electronic components.
In all these photos are highlighted the most important electronic components, which will be recovered, but also other subassemblies of interest. Where appropriate, the notations are those in the block diagram.


Step 3: Capacitors Recovery

Capacitors Recovery

Capacitors Recovery

With the exception of the capacitors in the Network Filter, it is recommended to recover only the following capacitors:
-C4 (see photo10) 1uF/250V, pulse capacitors.
It is the capacitor coupled in series with the primary TR1 (chopper), which has the role of cutting any continuous component caused by the imbalance of the half bridge and which would magnetize in DC. TR1 core.
Usually the C4 is in good condition and can be used on other similar power supplies, having the same role.
-C1, C2 (see photo11) 330uf/250V...470uF/250V , value that depends on the power supplied by the power supply.
They are usually in good condition. It is checked to have a maximum deviation of +/- 5% between them.
I found in some cases that although a value was marked (for example 470uF), in reality the value was lower. If the two values are balanced (+/- 5%) it is OK.
Pairs are kept, as they were recovered, as in photo11.


Step 4: NTC Recovery

NTC Recovery

NTC is the element that limits the current through the rectifier bridge at start-up.
For example, NTC type 5D-15 (photo 12) has 5ohm (room temperature) at start-up. After a period of tens of seconds, due to its heating, the resistance decreases to less than 0.5 ohm. This makes the power dissipated on this element lower, improving the efficiency of the power supply.
Also, NTC dimensions are smaller than a similar limiting resistor.
Usually, NTC is in good condition and can be used in similar positions in other power supplies.

Step 5: Recovery of Rectifier Diodes and Rectifier Bridges

Recovery of Rectifier Diodes and Rectifier Bridges

The most common form of rectifier is the one with a bridge (see photo 13).
Bridges consisting of 4 diodes are rarely used.
They are usually in good condition and are used in similar positions in power supply.


Step 6: Recovery of Chopper Transformers and Fast Diodes

Recovery of Chopper Transformers and Fast Diodes

For enthusiasts of construction of switching power supplies, the recovery of chopper transformers is of the greatest utility. So I will write an Instructables on the exact identification and rewinding of these transformers.
Now I will limit myself to saying that their recovery is good to be done together with the rectifier diodes in the secondary and where possible with the label on the power supply box (see photo 14). Thus we will have information about the number of secondary of the transformer and about the power that it can offer.
They are usually in good condition and are used in similar positions in power supply.

Step 7: Network Filter Recovery

Network Filter Recovery
Network Filter Recovery

When the Network Filter is planted on the motherboard of the power supply, they will be recovered for later use as in the initial configuration (see photo 15).
There are power supply variants in which the Network Filter is attached to the male couple on the box.
There are two variants: without shield and with shield (see photo16).
They are usually found in good condition, and can be used in the same position in power supplies..


Step 8: Recovery of Switching Transistors

Recovery of Switching Transistors

The most used switching transistors on this position are 2SC3306 and MJE13007. They are fast switching transistors at 8-10A and 400V (Q1 and Q2). See photo 17.
There are other transistors that are used.
They are usually found in good condition, but can only be used in the same position in half-bridge power supplies.

Step 9: Heatsinks Recovery

Heatsinks Recovery

There are usually 2 heatsinks on each power supply.
-Heatsink1. On it are mounted Q1, Q2 and possible 3-pin stabilizers.
-Heatsink2. On it are mounted fast rectifiers for output voltages.
They can be used in other power supply or other applications(audio for example). See photo 18.

Step 10: Recovery of Other Transformers and Coils

Recovery of Other Transformers and Coils

There are 3 categories of transformers or inductors that are worth recovering(see photo 19):
1.L coils that are used in the original scheme as filters coils on auxiliary rectifiers.
They are toroidal coils and a core is used for 2 or 3 auxiliary rectifiers in the original scheme.
They can be used not only in similar positions, but also as coils in step-down or step-up power supplies, because they can withstand a continuous component of high value without saturating the core.
2.TR2 transformers that can be used as a driver transformer in half-bridge power supplies.
3.TRUsby, standby transformer, which can be used in the same position, as transformer in a standby source, for another power supply.

Step 11: Recovery of Other Components and Materials

Recovery of Other Components and Materials

Recovery of Other Components and Materials

Recovery of Other Components and Materials
Recovery of Other Components and Materials
Recovery of Other Components and Materials
In photo 20 and 21 you can see disassembled sources and the components described above.
In addition, here are two elements that can be useful: the metal box in which the power supply was mounted and the fan that cools its components.
The way we used the metal box we find at:
https://www.instructables.com/Power-Timer-With-Ard...
and
https://www.instructables.com/Home-Sound-System/
The fans are powered by 12V DC and also have many applications. But I found a fairly large number of fans worn (noise, vibration) or even stuck up.
That is why it is good to check carefully.
Other things that can be recovered are the wires. Photo 22 shows the wires recovered from several power supplies. They are flexible, of good quality and can be reused.
Photo 24 shows other components that can be recovered: PWM Control CI.
The most used are: TL494 (KIA494, KA7500, M5T494) or those from the SG 6103, SG6105 series.
Separately from these are ICs from the LM393 series, LM339, comparators that are used in source protection circuits.
All of these ICs are usually in good condition, but a pre-use check is required.
Finally, but not without importance, you can recover the tin with which the components of the power supply are soldered.
The desoldering of the components is done with tin sucker.
By cleaning it, a certain amount of tin is obtained, which is collected and melted in the tin melting bath (photo 23).
This melting bath is made of Aluminum and is electrically heated. A box recovered from the power supply is used as support.
Of course, it is necessary to collect a large amount of tin, which is done over time and on several devices. But it is an activity worth doing because it saves the environment and the capitalization of the tin thus obtained is quite profitable.

Step 12: Final Conclusion:

The recovery of components and materials from these power supplies is one that contributes to saving the environment, but helps us to obtain components and materials with which to do various things. Some of them I will present in the future.
Some of the electronic components on the board will not be recovered, being considered obsolete or devalued. This is the case for the other components that have not been shown here and will be left on the motherboard. These will be recycled by authorized companies.
And that's it!

Power your Calculator using Potato.

 

Introduction: Potato Powered Calculator

 

Potato Powered CalculatorPotato Powered Calculator

 

This is how I powered a calculator from a potato battery. It is still working after 3 days.

You may may be tempted to use a small red LED light instead - don't. It won't work (not enough current or voltage). Also, do not eat the potato afterwords.
Buy some alligator leads for this project, it will make it so much easier.
Supplies:Calculator3 Cablespotato2 zinc coated washers2 strips of copper                                                              

 

 Step 1: Calculator and Cables

 

Calculator and CablesCalculator and Cables


I was in a discount shop the other day and I brought a small, cheap calculator. I checked that it only needed 1.5 volts to power it. (this was written on the packet) and it had a small LCD display. LCD stands for liquid crystal display. It also used a small button battery. Afterwards, I went to an electronic hobby story and brought a packet of alligator clip cables. These are wires with alligator clips on each end, (for some reason I keep thinking they are called crocodile clips). There were 10 cables in the packet, and they were so much easier to use than playing around with wires and trying to attach them with sticky tape. I could have also got them delivered over the internet, but the store was nearby.



Step 2: Copper and Zinc Coated Washers


Copper and Zinc Coated Washers
Copper and Zinc Coated Washers


Previously, I had already been to a hardware story and got some zinc coated washers, though turns out I had some zinc coated nails and screws already at home which I could have used. I thought getting a copper strip would be a problem but while in the story I visited the plumbing section and found some copper saddles, used to secure ½ inch pipe. I straighten these when I got home into strips. Now I had what was required to make a potato powered calculator.


Step 3: Remove Battery From Calculator


Remove Battery From Caculator
Remove Battery From Caculator
Remove Battery From Caculator

Remove existing battery
Cover solar panel if required
Attached cables.

I took the back off the calculator and removed the small 1.5v button battery, being carefully to store it in a safe space. I noticed the calculator was still working as it had a small solar panel on it, I covered this with black tape to stop it. Next, I connected a red alligator clip cable to the positive terminal and a black one to the negative terminal. They were marked + and -.


Step 4: Cut Potato in Half, Insert Copper and Zinc Coated Washer


Cut Potato in Half, Insert Copper and Zinc Coated Washer
Cut Potato in Half, Insert Copper and Zinc Coated Washer
Cut Potato in Half, Insert Copper and Zinc Coated Washer
Cut Potato in Half, Insert Copper and Zinc Coated Washer
Cut Potato in Half, Insert Copper and Zinc Coated Washer

Cut in half
Cut two slits into each half
Put in the metal strips

Now to making the battery: I cut the potato in half, then poked a small slit for the washer and another about ¾ inches away for the copper strip. I pushed a zinc washer in one of the slits and a copper strip in the other. I did this for both halves of potato. They each make a cell which when connected with wire will make a battery.


Step 5: Add a Cable: Copper to Zinc - Between Potato Halves


Add a Cable: Copper to Zinc - Between Potato Halves
Add a Cable: Copper to Zinc - Between Potato Halves
Add a Cable: Copper to Zinc - Between Potato Halves

Add a cable between the zinc coated washer from one potato to the copper strip on the other half.

I connected another new alligator cable (it's the green cable n the photo) from a copper strip in one half of potato to the zinc washer on the other half. This is called connecting the cells in series


Step 6: Connect the Calculator


Connect the Calculator
Connect the Calculator
Connect the Calculator
Connect the Calculator

Add the wires previously attached to the back of the calculator.

Now connect the black cable, the one connected to the negative terminal on the calculator to the free zinc washer. Connect the red cable from the calculator to the free copper strip in the other half of potato. Check the photos to see its connected correctly.


Step 7: Calculator Away

Calculator Away
Calculator Away
Calculator Away


Turn on the calculator and get calculating with potato power! (OK, really its zinc electrons)

Calculators are so much fun. Did you know they can do more than just maths?: So, there were these two countries who had oil wells and they went to war. One side had 142 soldiers (type into calculator) and the other had 154 soldiers (type into calculator) and they fought over 69 oil wells (type into calculator) times 5 years (type multiplier sign and then 5 on calculator). Do you know who won? (press = sign on calculator and turn it 180 degrees to read the answer). Man, that one never gets old!

Step 8: Questions and Answers:

Questions and Answers:

1. Can this potato battery be used to charge my iPhone?
Answer: No!

2. Can it run a red LED light?
Answer: No.

3. How long will it run the calculator:
Answer: Don’t know, I have been using it off and on for 3 days and it is still working.

4. What if it doesn’t work?
Answer: Move on and do something else, you can get frustrated and waste a lot of time playing around with potato batteries and the like. There is also a fair bit of misleading information on the internet about them. The power they make is very small and can’t be used for much at all.


Step 9: Further Investigation

Further Investigation
Further Investigation

I also tried a couple of strawberries and a banana to power a calculator. Both worked.


Step 10: Measuring Power Output

Measuring Power Output
Measuring Power Output

Power of the battery is measured in watts.
This is the voltage x the current (amps)
Watts = Volts x Amps

Using a multimeter I measured the volts and the amps:

Volts = 1.72
Amps = 0.000528 (0.528 Milliamps)

A Milliamp is 1/1000 of an Amp

Watts: 1.72 x .000528 = 0.000908


Step 11: Power From Cooked Potato

Power From Cooked Potato
Power From Cooked Potato

I had read cooking the potato would increase its output. So I cooked a different potato and measured output.

Volts: 1.346
Milliamps: 1.525 (very small)

The volts had reduced but Milliamps had increased. The potato also started to break up and wasn't very usable.

Apparently, cooking the potato reduces its internal resistance and allows more current to flow from the zinc washer to the copper strip. The energy isn't really coming from the potato but from the zinc electrons on the washers.
The power is still too small to light a red LED, most need 3 volts and 20 Milliamps.

Source: Instructables